If you've lived in Colorado through any recent summer, you've experienced it. The sky turns orange-gray. The mountains disappear. The air quality index spikes into "unhealthy" territory. You close your windows, check on your kids, maybe wear an N95 mask to walk the dog.
What almost nobody thinks about is what that same smoke is doing to their hair.
I started bringing this up with clients at Burman & Co after the 2020 and 2021 fire seasons, when smoke lingered for weeks. People were coming in with hair that felt inexplicably dry, gritty, and dull — even clients who hadn't changed their routines. The common thread was smoke exposure. Once I started asking about it, the pattern was clear.
This guide covers what wildfire smoke actually does to your hair, why regular shampoo doesn't fully remove it, and how to properly clean and protect your hair during Colorado's fire season.
Dealing with dry, dull, smoky-feeling hair? Book a deep conditioning or clarifying treatment or explore our hair treatments.
What's Actually in Wildfire Smoke
Wildfire smoke isn't just "wood smoke." Modern wildfires burn trees, yes, but also grass, brush, structures, vehicles, and everything inside them. The resulting particulate mixture includes:
- Fine particulate matter (PM2.5) — particles smaller than 2.5 microns that penetrate deep into hair cuticles
- Coarse ash particles — visible grit that settles on hair and scalp
- Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) — benzene, formaldehyde, acrolein, and other chemicals from burning synthetic materials
- Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) — carcinogenic compounds from incomplete combustion
- Heavy metals — lead, mercury, and arsenic from burned structures and vehicles
- Carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides — gases that oxidize hair pigment and protein
When this mixture settles on your hair — which it does every time you step outside during a smoke event — it creates multiple problems simultaneously.
How Smoke Damages Hair
1. Particulate Embedding in the Cuticle
Hair cuticles are layered scales that overlap like roof shingles. When smoke particulates settle on hair, the fine particles (PM2.5 and smaller) work their way between and under these cuticle scales. Once embedded, they:
- Create friction and roughness — hair feels gritty and tangly
- Block moisture absorption — the particulate layer prevents conditioner from reaching the hair shaft
- Scatter light unevenly — making hair look dull and lifeless even after washing
- Trap odor — smoke smell persists because the particles themselves are the source, and they're hidden under the cuticle
Regular shampoo is designed to remove oil, dirt, and product buildup. It is not designed to extract microscopic particulates embedded under the cuticle. This is why your hair still feels "off" after washing during smoke season.
2. Chemical Oxidation of Hair Protein and Pigment
The VOCs and PAHs in wildfire smoke are chemically reactive. When they sit on hair, they oxidize (break down) both the protein structure and the pigment:
- Protein damage — weakens the hair shaft, reduces elasticity, increases breakage risk
- Pigment damage — fades color faster, particularly cool tones and fashion shades
- Cuticle degradation — makes hair more porous, which means it absorbs more smoke and more damage in a vicious cycle
This is the same type of oxidative damage caused by UV radiation and chlorine — it's just coming from the air instead of the sun or the pool.
3. Scalp Irritation and Buildup
Ash and particulates don't just land on hair — they settle on the scalp. This can cause:
- Itching and flaking — particulate matter irritates the scalp surface
- Clogged follicles — ash buildup around hair follicles can impede healthy hair growth
- Increased oil production — the scalp overproduces sebum in response to irritation, making hair feel greasy at the roots but dry at the ends
- Exacerbated conditions — dandruff, psoriasis, and eczema can all flare during smoke events
4. Persistent Odor
The smoke smell in your hair isn't just surface-level. Particulates embedded in the cuticle continue to release VOCs long after you've come inside. This is why you can wash your hair, step outside for five minutes the next day, and the smell comes right back — the embedded particles are reactivated by warmth and humidity.
How to Properly Clean Smoke-Damaged Hair
Step 1: Pre-Wash Oil Treatment (15–30 Minutes Before Washing)
This is the step most people skip, and it makes the biggest difference. Oil penetrates the cuticle and helps lift embedded particulates to the surface where shampoo can remove them.
How to do it:
- Apply a lightweight oil (argan, jojoba, or KMS Hairplay Styling Oil) from mid-lengths to ends
- Work it through with your fingers, focusing on areas that feel the grittiest
- Let it sit for 15–30 minutes (longer if you've had heavy exposure)
- Don't apply oil to the scalp — it can trap particulates against the skin
Why this works: The oil creates a lubricating layer that helps dislodge particles from under the cuticle scales. It also pre-conditions the hair so the clarifying shampoo in the next step doesn't strip it completely.
Step 2: Clarifying Shampoo Wash
Use a chelating or clarifying shampoo — not your regular daily shampoo. You need something that can bind to particulates and minerals and pull them out.
How to do it:
- Wet hair thoroughly with warm (not hot) water
- Apply clarifying shampoo, focusing on the scalp and roots first
- Massage the scalp for 60 seconds to dislodge ash and particulate buildup
- Work the shampoo through mid-lengths and ends — these are where embedded particles concentrate
- Rinse thoroughly for 60–90 seconds longer than usual
- If your hair still feels gritty, repeat — a single wash may not be enough after heavy exposure
Recommended clarifying shampoos:
- Malibu C Un-Do-Goo Shampoo — specifically formulated to remove environmental buildup
- Ouai Detox Shampoo — gentle enough for weekly use during fire season
- Neutrogena Anti-Residue Shampoo — affordable and effective for occasional use
Step 3: Deep Conditioning Mask
Clarifying shampoo strips hair of everything — including the good stuff. You must follow with a deep conditioning mask to restore what the clarifying process removed.
How to do it:
- Apply a generous amount of deep conditioning mask from mid-lengths to ends
- Avoid the roots (your scalp will produce its own oils)
- Leave on for 5–10 minutes — longer if your hair is color-treated or already dry
- For better penetration, cover with a shower cap and apply warm towel
- Rinse with cool water to seal the cuticle
Recommended masks:
- Briogeo Don't Despair, Repair! — protein + moisture for smoke-damaged hair
- Kerasilk Intensive Rich Mask — available at Burman & Co; excellent for Colorado-dry hair
- Olaplex No. 5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner — repairs protein damage from VOCs
Step 4: Leave-In Protection
After washing, apply a leave-in product that creates a barrier against future smoke exposure. This won't make you immune to particulates, but it gives the cuticle a smoother surface that particles can't embed in as easily.
Recommended:
- Pureology Color Fanatic — UV + environmental protection in a lightweight spray
- KMS Moist Repair Leave-In Conditioner — hydration plus a smooth surface coating
- Bumble and bumble Hairdresser's Invisible Oil Primer — creates a protective layer that particulates slide off of
How Often to Clean Smoke-Damaged Hair
During active smoke events, you may need to adjust your washing frequency:
| Condition | Washing Frequency | Clarifying Frequency | |-----------|------------------|---------------------| | AQI under 50 (clean air) | Your normal schedule | Once every 2–3 weeks | | AQI 50–100 (moderate smoke) | Every 1–2 days | Once per week | | AQI 100–150 (unhealthy for sensitive groups) | Daily | Every 3–4 days | | AQI 150+ (unhealthy) | Daily | Every other wash |
Important: Clarifying more than twice a week will damage your hair. If you're in a prolonged smoke event, alternate clarifying washes with gentle, hydrating washes, and use the pre-wash oil treatment to maximize each clarifying session's effectiveness.
When You Need Professional Help
At-home cleaning handles light to moderate smoke exposure. But if you've been through a heavy, prolonged smoke event — a week or more of AQI over 100 — you may need salon-grade treatments:
Professional Clarifying Treatment
Salon clarifying treatments use professional-grade chelating agents and high-concentration cleansing formulas that aren't available over the counter. They remove particulate and mineral buildup more thoroughly than at-home products.
Best for: Hair that still feels gritty or looks dull after at-home clarifying.
Deep Conditioning Treatment
A professional deep conditioning treatment delivers moisture and protein at concentrations impossible to achieve at home. If smoke exposure has left your hair dry, brittle, or porous, this restores what the particulates stripped.
Best for: Hair that feels dry and rough despite at-home masks.
Bond Pro Treatment
If VOCs have oxidized your hair's protein bonds — you'll notice this as reduced elasticity, increased breakage, or color that looks "dead" — a bond pro treatment repairs the internal structure.
Best for: Color-treated hair that went dull during smoke season, or hair that's breaking more than usual.
Gloss Treatment
Smoke exposure oxidizes color pigment, particularly in blonde and highlighted hair. A gloss treatment deposits fresh tone and creates a sealed, shiny surface that resists future particulate embedding.
Best for: Color that looks flat, brassy, or muddy after smoke exposure.
Preventing Smoke Damage During Fire Season
Prevention is always easier than cleanup. During Colorado's fire season (typically June through October), take these precautions:
1. Cover Your Hair Outdoors
- Hat or scarf — the most effective physical barrier. A wide-brimmed hat or silk scarf over your hair prevents the majority of particulates from settling on it.
- Silk or satin is ideal — smooth surfaces don't trap particulates the way textured fabrics (knit beanies, cotton wraps) do.
- Hooded jackets — even a simple hood reduces exposure significantly.
2. Keep Windows Closed on Smoky Days
This sounds obvious, but indoor particulate levels can be 50–70% of outdoor levels when windows are open. Your home's HVAC filter (if it's MERV 13 or higher) removes most PM2.5. An open window undoes that protection.
3. Wash or Rinse After Outdoor Exposure
You don't need a full wash every time, but a 60-second rinse with fresh water removes the majority of surface particulates before they can embed in the cuticle. This is especially important before bed — you don't want to sleep with smoke particulates pressed against your hair on a pillow for 7–8 hours.
4. Use Silk Pillowcases
Cotton pillowcases create friction that grinds embedded particulates deeper into the cuticle while you sleep. Silk or satin pillowcases reduce friction and prevent this from happening.
5. Avoid Heat Styling on Smoky Days
Heat opens the cuticle, which allows embedded particulates to penetrate deeper. If you must style with heat, apply a leave-in protectant first and keep tool temperatures moderate (under 350°F).
Common Questions About Smoke and Hair
Q: I can't smell smoke on my hair — does that mean it's clean?
A: Not necessarily. VOCs continue to off-gas from embedded particulates at levels below your detection threshold. The damage — oxidation, cuticle roughness, moisture blocking — happens regardless of whether you can smell it.
Q: Does air conditioning protect my hair indoors?
A: Partially. HVAC with MERV 13+ filters removes most PM2.5. But if you're going in and out, the particulates you pick up outside don't fully leave when you come inside. The rinse-off strategy still matters.
Q: Can smoke exposure cause hair loss?
A: There's no direct evidence that short-term wildfire smoke exposure causes hair loss. However, severe scalp irritation from ash and chemical exposure can damage follicles, and the stress of poor air quality can trigger telogen effluvium (stress-related shedding) in susceptible individuals. If you're noticing unusual shedding during or after fire season, see a dermatologist.
Q: My blonde hair turned yellowish after the smoke cleared — is that related?
A: Yes. The VOCs and PAHs in smoke are oxidizing agents — they break down the violet and blue pigment molecules in cool blonde tones, revealing the underlying yellow. A toner or gloss can neutralize this. Going forward, UV-protective products and physical barriers (hats) also help prevent it.
Q: Is it safe to get color done during smoke season?
A: Yes, but time it carefully. Color services open the cuticle, which makes hair temporarily more vulnerable to particulate embedding. Schedule color for right after a smoke event clears rather than during one. And always follow a color appointment with a gloss to seal the cuticle.
Q: How long does it take for hair to recover after smoke exposure?
A: Light exposure (a few days of smoke): 1–2 weeks of proper care. Moderate exposure (1–2 weeks of smoke): 3–4 weeks plus a professional treatment. Heavy or prolonged exposure: may require a full repair plan including bond treatments, deep conditioning, and color refresh. The sooner you start proper cleaning, the faster the recovery.
Book a Smoke Damage Treatment at Burman & Co
If Colorado's fire season has left your hair feeling dry, gritty, dull, or just not right, we can help. At Burman & Co, we assess the type and extent of environmental damage and create a targeted repair plan — whether that's a clarifying treatment, deep conditioning, bond repair, or a combination.
We serve clients from Lone Tree, Highlands Ranch, Centennial, Parker, Castle Rock, and across the south Denver metro.
Visit us: 8353 Willow St C1, Lone Tree, CO 80124
Call: (303) 706-9626
Book online: Contact Us
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